Prayer Plant Care: Why Most Guides Get It Wrong (2026)

The Ultimate Prayer Plant Care Guide — and honestly, after our first attempt, we understood why it has a reputation for being difficult.

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Emilie brought home a Maranta leuconeura 'Fascinator' from a local plant shop two years ago, convinced it was
"basically a Pothos with fancier leaves." Within three weeks, the tips had turned crispy brown, the leaves had stopped
their famous nightly folding, and the whole plant looked like it had given up on life.

The problem wasn't the plant. It was every piece of advice we followed.

Most prayer plant care guides online tell you to "keep the soil moist" and "provide indirect light" —
which is technically true but practically useless. They don't tell you that Maranta leuconeura is a
shallow-rooted, rhizomatous species from the Brazilian tropical forest floor that spreads horizontally in the wild,
sending roots into the substrate at each leaf node. That biological context changes everything about how you water, pot,
and position this plant.

Once Joakim dug into the actual botany — cross-referencing the RHS care
guidelines, the NC
State Extension plant profile, and peer-reviewed propagation data — and Emilie started experimenting with
different spots in our apartment, we cracked the code. That same 'Fascinator' is now one of the healthiest plants in our
collection, sitting on our bathroom shelf and unfurling new leaves every few weeks.

This guide is everything we wish someone had told us before we nearly killed ours. If you want to know how to properly care for a prayer plant indoors — not the vague stuff, but the actual biology-backed routine — you're in the right place. We'll cover light, water, humidity, soil, and exactly how to fix brown tips, curling leaves, and drooping — the three problems that plague every prayer plant owner.

Quick Prayer Plant Care
Summary

Before we go deep, here's the cheat sheet for Maranta care. If you want the science behind each
recommendation, keep reading — we break down every single point below.

• Botanical name: Maranta leuconeura
• Common names: Prayer plant, herringbone plant, rabbit's foot plant
• Native habitat: Brazilian tropical forest floor
• Light: Bright indirect — never direct sun. East-facing windows are ideal.
• Water: Keep soil consistently moist but never waterlogged. Use filtered or rainwater if possible.
• Humidity: 50–65% minimum. Higher is better. Misting helps but isn't enough alone.
• Soil: Well-draining, peat-free potting mix with added perlite. Shallow pots preferred.
• Temperature: 65–80°F (18–27°C). Never below 59°F (15°C).
• Fertilizer: Balanced liquid feed, monthly, during spring and summer only.
• Propagation: Division in spring (easiest) or stem cuttings with at least 3–4 leaves.
• Pet safe: Yes — non-toxic to cats and dogs.
• Difficulty: Moderate. Harder than Pothos, easier than Calathea.

What Is a
Prayer Plant (and Why Do the Leaves Move)?

If you've ever glanced at your prayer plant and sworn the leaves just moved — you're not imagining it. This is the
single most fascinating thing about prayer plant care, and understanding it actually makes you a better
caretaker.

Maranta leuconeura is a rhizomatous perennial native to the tropical forests of Brazil. According to the Royal
Horticultural Society, it grows as an evergreen groundcover, reaching about 12 inches (30 cm) tall and spreading
horizontally across the forest floor.

The "prayer" name comes from its daily light-dependent movement called nyctinasty. During the day, the
leaves lie flat to maximize light absorption. As evening approaches, they fold upward — resembling hands pressed
together in prayer. This movement is driven by changes in water pressure within specialized cells called
pulvini at the base of each leaf.

Why does this matter for care? Because if your prayer plant's leaves have stopped moving,
something is wrong. Healthy leaves should fold up every evening and unfurl every morning. We check ours at around 10 PM
— if the leaves are still flat, we know the plant is stressed (usually from low humidity or inconsistent watering).

Prayer plant vs Calathea — are they the same? No. Both are in the Marantaceae family and both fold
their leaves at night, but they're different genera. Maranta (true prayer plants) are generally easier to care for than
Calathea (recently reclassified as Goeppertia). If someone tells you Calatheas and prayer plants need identical
care, they're oversimplifying — Calatheas are significantly more humidity-demanding.

The most common prayer plant varieties you'll find in shops are:

• Maranta leuconeura var. erythroneura (Herringbone plant) — deep green leaves with striking red
  veins. The most popular variety and the one most people picture when they hear "prayer plant."
• Maranta leuconeura var. kerchoveana (Rabbit's foot) — light green leaves with dark brown spots
  between the veins. Slightly more forgiving than the red variety.
• Maranta leuconeura 'Lemon Lime' — bright chartreuse and dark green variegation. Beautiful but
  slightly more light-sensitive.
• Maranta leuconeura 'Kim' — purple-spotted leaves with white streaks. Less common but gaining
  popularity.

All varieties require essentially the same prayer plant care routine. The differences are mostly cosmetic — but there are a couple of nuances worth knowing:

How to care for a red prayer plant (var. erythroneura): The red herringbone is the most sensitive to direct sun. Those vivid red veins fade quickly if the light is too intense. Keep it slightly further from the window than you think necessary, and the color stays bold.

How to care for a Lemon Lime prayer plant: The 'Lemon Lime' variety is the most light-sensitive of the bunch. Its bright chartreuse leaves will bleach to near-white in direct sun, and the contrast disappears. It does well in slightly lower light than the other varieties — a north-facing windowsill or 4–6 feet from an east window is ideal. Everything else — water, humidity, soil — is identical to the standard care routine below.

Prayer Plant Light Requirements

Here's where most prayer plant care guides fail you. They say "indirect light" and leave it at that.
But the difference between the right and wrong indirect light is the difference between a thriving Maranta and one that
slowly fades.

The sweet spot: Bright, filtered light — the kind you get 3–6 feet from an east-facing window, or
behind a sheer curtain on a north-facing window. The bathroom shelf about 5 feet from a frosted east window has become
prayer plant paradise in our home.

What happens with too much light: Direct sun bleaches the leaves. Those gorgeous dark green patterns
fade to a washed-out pale green, and you'll see crispy brown patches on the leaves facing the window. We learned this
the hard way when we placed our first Maranta on a south-facing windowsill in July — within a week the leaf tips curled
up and turned papery brown.

What happens with too little light: The plant stretches toward the nearest light source, producing
leggy stems with wide gaps between leaves. Colors become dull. The leaf movement slows or stops entirely. Growth
stalls.

The RHS
specifically recommends "bright filtered or indirect light" and warns against direct sunlight — confirming what we've
found through trial and error.

Our recommendation for different rooms:

• East-facing window: Perfect. Gentle morning sun, indirect light the rest of the day. Place
  directly on the windowsill or 3 feet back.
• North-facing window: Good. Consistent indirect light all day. Place directly on the sill for
  maximum brightness.
• West-facing window: Usable, but pull back 6 feet or use a sheer curtain. Afternoon sun is too
  harsh.
• South-facing window: Avoid placing directly on the sill. Pull back 6–10 feet or use heavy sheer
  curtains.
• Bathroom: Often excellent — frosted glass diffuses light naturally, and the humidity is a bonus.

Low-light winter tip: If you live in a northern state or anywhere with short winter days (November–February), move your prayer plant closer to the window — from the shelf to the windowsill itself. The weak winter sun won't burn the leaves, and the plant needs every bit of light it can get during those short, gray days.

How to Water a Prayer Plant

Watering is where prayer plant care gets genuinely tricky — and where we see the most confusion online.

The advice you'll read everywhere is "keep the soil moist." This is correct but dangerously vague. "Moist" does not mean
wet. It does not mean soggy. And it absolutely does not mean sitting in a saucer of water. What it actually means is:
the soil should feel like a wrung-out sponge at all times.

Here is the exact watering routine that works for us:

Step 1: Check the soil with your finger every 3–4 days. Push down about 1 inch (2 cm). If the top layer
feels barely dry to the touch, it's time to water.

Step 2: Water thoroughly until liquid drains from the bottom of the pot. Don't just give it a splash —
Maranta roots are shallow and spread horizontally, so you want the entire root zone evenly moist.

Step 3: Empty the saucer after 15 minutes. Never let the pot sit in standing water. This is the fastest
path to root rot.

Step 4: In winter, reduce frequency. Most homes drop to around 65°F at night in January, and
the plant's metabolism slows dramatically. We water roughly every 7–10 days in winter versus every 4–5 days in summer.

What type of water to use: This matters more than most people realize. Prayer plants are sensitive to
fluoride and chlorine in tap water — these chemicals accumulate in the leaf tips over time, causing the classic brown,
crispy tips that drive everyone mad.

• Best: Rainwater or distilled water
• Good: Filtered water (standard countertop filter works)
• Acceptable: Tap water left out in an open container for 24 hours (chlorine evaporates, but
  fluoride stays)
• Avoid: Straight from the tap, especially if you live in a hard water area

We use filtered water from a basic Brita jug. Since switching from straight tap water, our brown tip problem dropped by
roughly 80%.

Humidity: The
Secret to Prayer Plant Success

If there's one section of this prayer plant care guide we want you to actually memorize, it's this one.
Humidity is the number one reason prayer plants fail indoors — and it's the one factor most guides mention briefly then
gloss over.

Maranta leuconeura is a tropical forest floor species. In the wild, it lives under a dense canopy in constant
humidity of 80–90%. Your apartment is probably 30–45% in winter. That gap is what kills prayer plants slowly.

The RHS
explicitly states: "Maintain high humidity at all times by misting or keeping in a gravel tray." The NC State Extension
confirms the plant requires consistently high humidity for optimal leaf quality.

Minimum target: 50% relative humidity. Ideal: 60–70%.

How to actually achieve this (ranked by effectiveness):

• Humidifier (most effective): This is what finally solved our prayer plant problems. We run a
  small cool-mist humidifier near our plant shelf, set to about 60%. The difference was visible within two weeks — new
  leaves came in larger and the brown tips stopped appearing on fresh growth.

  What we use

  Brite Labs 6L Cool Mist Plant Humidifier

  This is the humidifier that finally solved our prayer plant problems. Top-fill, quiet, and the 6L tank means we only refill every couple of days.

  
  Check price on Amazon →
  
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  Price and availability may change. Amazon pricing at time of purchase applies.

• Grouping plants together: Plants naturally transpire moisture. Clustering your prayer plant with
  other tropical houseplants creates a localized humidity microclimate. We keep ours next to our Calathea and a Wandering Jew — the combined transpiration raises the immediate humidity by 5–10%.
• Pebble tray: Place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles. As water evaporates from the tray, it raises
  humidity directly around the plant. This works, but only adds about 5–8% humidity — helpful as a supplement, not a
  solution on its own.
• Bathroom placement: If your bathroom gets enough light (a frosted window counts), this is a
  natural high-humidity environment. Our bathroom Maranta is by far our healthiest.
• Misting (least effective): Be honest — misting raises humidity for about 15 minutes. It's better
  than nothing, but if you're relying solely on misting, you'll still get brown tips. If you do mist, use filtered
  water and mist in the morning so leaves dry before evening.

Should I mist my prayer plant? You can, but don't rely on it as your only humidity strategy. Misting
alone is not enough. Think of it as a complement to one of the methods above, not a replacement.

Best Soil for Prayer Plants

Prayer plants have shallow, spreading root systems — they're not deep rooters like snake plants or monstera. This means
your soil needs to balance two competing demands: retain enough moisture to keep the roots happy, while draining fast
enough to prevent the shallow roots from sitting in water.

The RHS recommends growing in "peat-free compost in bright filtered light in half-pots or pans to
accommodate their shallow root system."

Our soil recipe:

• 60% peat-free houseplant potting mix (standard bag from your garden center or nursery)
• 20% perlite (for drainage and aeration)
• 10% orchid bark (small chips, for structure and air pockets)
• 10% coco coir (for moisture retention without heaviness)

Key pot choice: Use a shallow, wide pot rather than a deep, narrow one. Maranta roots spread sideways,
not down. A pot that's 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) wide but only 4–5 inches (10–12 cm) deep is ideal. The RHS specifically recommends half-pots for this reason. Always use a pot with drainage holes — no
exceptions.

When to repot: Every 1–2 years in spring, or when you see roots emerging from drainage holes. Go up
only one pot size (about 1 inch / 2–3 cm wider). Overpotting — putting a small plant in a large pot — leads to waterlogged soil and
root rot because the excess soil holds moisture the roots can't use.

Temperature Requirements

Prayer plants are tropical and do not tolerate cold. The NC State Extension
confirms a minimum temperature requirement of 59°F (15°C), with the ideal range being 65–80°F (18–27°C).

In a typical home, room temperature hovers between 68–72°F in summer and drops to about 64–66°F at night in
winter. Prayer plants handle this fine. What they absolutely cannot handle:

• Cold drafts: Don't place near exterior doors, single-glazed windows, or drafty hallways in
  winter. We lost leaves on one Maranta because it was too close to our poorly insulated living room window during a
  December cold snap.
• Radiator heat: The opposite extreme. Blasting hot, dry air from a radiator directly onto a prayer
  plant is a fast track to crispy, curling leaves. Keep at least 20 inches (50 cm) away from radiators.
• Temperature swings: Maranta dislikes rapid changes. Moving a plant from a 72°F living room to a
  59°F hallway overnight can cause leaf drop. Keep conditions stable.

Fertilizing Your Prayer Plant

Prayer plants are not heavy feeders. Over-fertilising causes more problems than under-fertilising — specifically salt
buildup in the soil that burns those delicate shallow roots and causes (you guessed it) brown leaf tips.

The RHS
recommends applying "a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly when in growth."

Our routine:

• Spring through summer (March–September): Feed once per month with a balanced liquid houseplant
  fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength on the label. We use a standard 10-10-10 or 7-7-7 NPK.
• Autumn and winter (October–February): Stop feeding completely. The plant's growth slows
  dramatically, and any fertilizer you add just sits in the soil as salt buildup.

If you see white crust on the soil surface — that's mineral/salt accumulation from fertilizer or hard
water. Flush the soil thoroughly by running water through the pot for 2–3 minutes, letting it drain completely. Do this
every 2–3 months as preventive maintenance.

How to Tell If a Prayer
Plant Is Happy

Before we get into problems and fixes, let's talk about what a thriving prayer plant actually looks like. If
you can recognize healthy behavior, you'll catch problems much earlier.

Signs your prayer plant is happy:

• Daily leaf movement: Leaves fold up in the evening and unfurl flat in the morning. This is the
  single best health indicator. If your Maranta stops moving, something is wrong.
• New leaves unfurling regularly: During the growing season (spring/summer), a healthy prayer plant
  produces a new leaf every 1–3 weeks. The new leaf will emerge tightly rolled from the center of the plant, gradually
  unfurling over 2–3 days.
• Vibrant color and pattern: Leaves should show clear, defined patterns — bold reds on the
  herringbone variety, distinct dark spots on the rabbit's foot. Faded, washed-out colors signal light problems.
• Firm, upright stems: Stems should hold the leaves at a slight angle during the day, not droop
  limply. Some natural trailing is fine as the plant matures, but droopy stems on young growth means something's off.
• No brown tips on new growth: Old leaves may have some brown tips from past care mistakes — that's
  fine, the damage is done. But new growth should emerge clean and green.

Emilie checks our prayer plants every evening when the leaves should be folded up. It takes two seconds and is the best
early warning system we've found.

Prayer Plant Propagation

Once your prayer plant care routine is dialed in and you have a healthy mother plant, propagation is
surprisingly straightforward. The NC State Extension confirms that Maranta leuconeura propagates readily through division
and stem cuttings.

The best time: Spring (March–May). The plant is entering its most active growth phase, and new roots
develop 2–3x faster than during winter.

Method 1: Division (Most Reliable)

Division is the simplest and most reliable prayer plant propagation method. You're separating an
established plant into sections — each with its own roots. There's no waiting for new roots to grow.

Step 1: Water your plant thoroughly 24 hours before dividing. This makes the roots pliable and reduces
transplant shock.

Step 2: Gently remove the plant from its pot. Brush or wash away loose soil to expose the root system
and rhizomes.

Step 3: Identify natural separation points. You'll see distinct clusters of stems connected to their
own root clumps. Each section needs at least 3–4 stems with healthy roots attached.

Step 4: Carefully pull sections apart by hand, or use a clean, sharp knife for stubborn rhizomes. Don't
worry about minor root damage — Maranta recovers quickly.

Step 5: Pot each division into a shallow, well-draining pot with fresh soil mix. Water lightly to
settle the soil around the roots.

Step 6: Place in bright indirect light and maintain high humidity for the first 2 weeks. Avoid direct
sun and do not fertilize for at least one month.

Success rate: 95%+. This is how Emilie turned our single Maranta into three healthy plants last spring.

Method 2: Stem Cuttings in Water

If your prayer plant has long stems with visible nodes (the small bumps where leaves emerge), you can take stem
cuttings. This is also a great way to rescue leggy plants — chop and prop.

Step 1: Cut a healthy stem just below a node. Your cutting should be 4–5 inches (10–12 cm) long with
3–4 leaves. Use clean, sharp scissors — Joakim wipes ours with rubbing alcohol before every cut.

Step 2: Remove the bottom 1–2 leaves to expose the bare nodes. These submerged nodes are where roots
will emerge.

Step 3: Place the cutting in a clean glass of filtered water, with only the bare nodes submerged. Keep
the remaining leaves above the waterline.

Step 4: Position in bright indirect light. Change water every 3–4 days to keep it oxygenated and
prevent bacterial growth.

Step 5: Roots should appear in 2–4 weeks. Once they reach 1–2 inches (3–5 cm) long, transplant to
moist, well-draining soil. Don't leave cuttings in water indefinitely — water roots become brittle and struggle to adapt
to soil.

Success rate: 70–80%. Mainly fails due to forgotten water changes or too little light.

Can you propagate prayer plants from a single leaf? No. Unlike succulents, Maranta cannot grow from a
leaf alone. You need a section of stem with at least one node. The node contains the meristematic tissue necessary to
produce new roots and shoots.

Prayer Plant Brown
Tips: Causes and Fixes

If we had a dollar for every time someone messaged us about prayer plant brown tips, we could fund a
second humidifier. This is the single most common prayer plant care complaint — and it almost always
comes down to one of three causes.

Cause #1: Low Humidity (The Usual
Suspect)

What it looks like: Crispy, dry brown edges and tips. Usually affects the oldest leaves first but
eventually shows up on new growth too. The brown area feels papery and crunches when you touch it.

The fix: Increase humidity. See our humidity section above for the full
breakdown. A humidifier set to 55–65% is the most effective long-term solution. Group plants together, use pebble trays,
and consider moving the plant to your bathroom if it gets enough light.

Cause #2: Tap Water Quality

What it looks like: Brown tips that develop gradually over weeks or months, even when humidity is
adequate. You might also notice white crust on the soil surface or pot edges.

The fix: Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater. If you must use tap water, let it sit in an open
container for 24 hours before using. Flush the soil every 2–3 months by running water through the pot for several
minutes.

Cause #3: Inconsistent Watering

What it looks like: Tips turn brown and crispy after periods of drought followed by heavy watering. The
rest of the leaf may look fine.

The fix: Establish a consistent watering schedule. Check soil every 3–4 days. Water when the top inch feels barely dry. Don't let the plant swing between bone-dry and soaking wet.

Should I cut the brown tips off my prayer plant? You can, for appearance. Use sterilized scissors and
trim at a slight angle, leaving a tiny sliver of brown (don't cut into green tissue — it just creates another wound that
will brown). The trimmed tips won't grow back green, but the plant will look tidier. Focus your energy on preventing new
browning rather than chasing old damage.

Prayer Plant Curling
Leaves: What It Means

Prayer plant curling leaves look different from the normal nightly folding. Normal movement is the
leaves lifting upward at the petiole (leaf stem). Stress curling is the leaf blade itself rolling inward lengthwise,
like a tube. Once you know the difference, you'll never confuse them.

Cause #1: Underwatering. The most common reason. When the soil dries out too much, the plant curls its
leaves inward to reduce moisture loss through transpiration. Check the soil — if it's bone dry, give the plant a
thorough watering and it should unfurl within hours.

Cause #2: Low humidity. Same mechanism as brown tips — the leaf is trying to conserve moisture. If the
soil is adequately moist but leaves still curl, humidity is your problem. See the humidity
section.

Cause #3: Too much direct light. Intense light causes leaves to curl inward as a protective response.
If curling coincides with a recent move to a brighter spot, pull the plant back from the window or add a sheer curtain.

Cause #4: Temperature stress. Cold drafts or radiator heat can trigger curling. Check for nearby cold
windows, open doors, or heating vents.

How do you fix curled prayer plant leaves? Address the underlying cause first. Water if dry, increase
humidity if dry air, reduce light if scorching, stabilize temperature if drafty. Most curled leaves will unfurl within
24–48 hours once the stressor is removed. Severely curled leaves that don't recover within a week may have permanent
damage — trim them at the base to redirect energy to healthy growth.

Why Is My Prayer Plant
Drooping?

Drooping prayer plant stems that hang limp instead of holding leaves at a gentle angle usually signal one of two things:

Underwatering: The most common cause. When severely thirsty, the entire plant wilts and stems lose
their turgor pressure. The fix is simple — give it a thorough drink and watch. A healthy prayer plant recovers from a
mild drought within 2–4 hours of watering. If it doesn't bounce back, the root system may be damaged.

Root rot from overwatering: This is the serious one. If the soil is wet or damp and the plant is still drooping, check the roots.

Gently unpot the plant and inspect — healthy roots are white or tan and firm. Rotted roots are brown, mushy, and may smell foul.

If you find rot, trim all affected roots with sterilized scissors, let the root system air-dry for 6–12 hours, and repot in fresh, well-draining soil. Water sparingly for the first 2 weeks.

How to tell the difference: Push your finger about 1 inch into the soil. Bone dry + drooping = needs water. Wet
+ drooping = possible root rot. This two-second test saves plants.

Prayer Plant Pests: What to Watch For

Prayer plants aren't especially pest-prone, but their love of humidity creates conditions that certain pests exploit. Catching them early makes all the difference — a small infestation takes 10 minutes to fix; an established one can take weeks.

Here are the three pests you're most likely to encounter:

Spider Mites

What to look for: Fine webbing on the undersides of leaves, tiny moving dots (often red or brown), and leaves that look dusty, stippled, or silver-streaked. Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions — which is exactly why prayer plants in low-humidity rooms are vulnerable.

The fix: Increase humidity immediately — mites hate moisture. Wipe down every leaf (top and underside) with a damp cloth, then spray the plant thoroughly with neem oil solution or insecticidal soap. Repeat every 5–7 days for 3 weeks to break the egg cycle. Isolate the plant from your other houseplants until you've confirmed the infestation is gone.

Mealybugs

What to look for: White, cottony clusters in leaf axils (where the leaf meets the stem) and along stems. Up close they look like tiny white insects covered in waxy fluff. They move slowly but spread fast to neighboring plants.

The fix: Dab each cluster directly with a cotton swab soaked in 70% isopropyl alcohol — this kills them on contact. Follow up with a full spray of neem oil or insecticidal soap. Check the plant every few days for 3–4 weeks; mealybugs are notorious for hiding in crevices and re-emerging.

Fungus Gnats

What to look for: Tiny black flies hovering around the soil surface. The adults are harmless but their larvae live in moist topsoil and feed on fine roots — which matters more for a shallow-rooted plant like Maranta than it does for deeper-rooted species.

The fix: Let the top 2 inches of soil dry out between waterings (fungus gnat larvae can't survive in dry soil). Yellow sticky traps catch the adults and help you gauge how bad the infestation is. For persistent cases, a soil drench of Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis (Bti) — sold as Mosquito Bits — kills the larvae without harming the plant.

Prevention tip: The best defense against all three pests is a healthy plant with good airflow and consistent humidity. Stressed, dry plants attract pests far more than well-cared-for ones.

Common Questions About Prayer Plant
Care

Your Prayer Plant Care Action Plan

Here's what we want you to take away from this guide. Prayer plant care isn't as hard as the internet makes it sound.

But it does require understanding one fundamental truth: this is a tropical forest floor plant living in your home. The closer you can mimic those conditions, the happier your Maranta will be.

The three things that make the biggest difference:

1. Humidity above 50%. Buy a small humidifier. Seriously. It's the single best investment you can
   make for your prayer plant — and every other tropical houseplant you own (like String of Hearts) will thank you too.
2. Filtered water. Switch from tap water to filtered or rainwater. This one change eliminates the
   majority of brown tip problems. A basic filter jug costs almost nothing and lasts months.
3. Consistent watering. Don't let the soil swing between bone-dry and soaking wet. Check every 3–4
   days. Water when the top layer feels barely dry. That's the entire routine.

We nearly killed our first Maranta because we followed generic advice instead of understanding the plant's actual
biology. Two years later, that same 'Fascinator' is thriving on our bathroom shelf, folding its leaves every evening like clockwork. If we can figure it out, so can you.

Now go check whether your prayer plant's leaves folded up tonight. If they did, you're doing just fine. 🌱

Expert Resources

• NC State
  Extension: Maranta leuconeura
• Royal
  Horticultural Society: Prayer Plant
• ASPCA: Prayer Plant Pet Safety